Dubrovnik

Arriving in Dubrovnik, I checked into the cliffside Villa Dubrovnik, where floor-to-ceiling glass opened directly over the cobalt Adriatic Sea toward the fortified Old Town. I took the hotel's sleek Venetian water taxi straight to the historic harbor, arriving like a film star stepping onto a movie set.

At 7:30 AM before the cruise crowds arrived, I tackled the two-kilometer loop of the Old Town City Walls (€35). Walking along the top of these 80-foot stone fortifications is exhilarating; on one side lies the shimmering sea, and on the other, a sea of terracotta rooftops, bell towers, and hidden courtyard gardens. We descended onto the polished limestone Stradun, where the stones shone like mirrors in the morning sun, stopping at Gradska Kavana Arsenal for an espresso and fresh fig pastry.

In the afternoon, I chartered a private motor yacht (€900) to explore the nearby Elaphiti Islands. We anchored in a secluded turquoise cove off Lopud Island, swimming in water so clear you could see sea urchins forty feet below on the white sand. For lunch on Šipan Island, a family-run konoba served grilled Adriatic squid with Swiss chard and potatoes, drizzled with peppery local olive oil.

Back in Dubrovnik for sunset, we climbed through a tiny hole in the fortress wall to Buža Bar, perched precariously on cliffs above the crashing waves. Sitting with a chilled glass of Pošip wine while cliff-divers leaped into the sea below was unforgettable. We ended the night with dinner at Restaurant 360, Dubrovnik's Michelin-starred venue built directly atop the medieval fortress ramparts, savoring smoked duck breast and Adriatic turbot under the starlit sky.